Tips When Using a Submersible Utility Pump

1. Use the handle on the pump to lift, move, or position it. Do not use the attached hose or the electrical power cord to do these tasks. Doing so may damage the electrical cord connection or the hose adaptor.
2. Do not allow your pump to "run dry" (that is, be sure and disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet when the pump is no longer pumping water). Allowing a pump to "run dry" can cause damage. The reason is that most utility pumps depend on the water that is being pumped through them to help cool their motor. Some pump owners use automatic timers to remind them to check on the standing water level to make sure the pump is not running dry.
3. If your pump has a removable intake screen (almost always located on the bottom of the pump and usually held on by several screws), periodically check the screen to see if bits of leaves, roots, etc have become lodged in the screen. (NOTE: Be sure and unplug the electrical cord from the wall outlet before performing any maintenance.) If the intake screen needs to be cleaned, remove the screws, clean the screen, and reinstall it on the pump.
4. Use a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) when you use your utility pump (or for that matter any other type of appliance). A GFCI is an inexpensive device that can help prevent severe electrical shocks. Ground faults occur when electrical current is leaking to the ground. When a GFCI device senses that electrical current is flowing to the ground, the GFCI automatically switches off the power. There are several different types of GFCI devices. Probably using a portable GFCI is the easiest way to go. One type of portable GFCI device plugs into the wall outlet and then the pump's electrical cord plugs into the GFCI device. The other type of portable GFCI is a short electrical cord with a built-in GFCI. Either type should work well for you.
5. Always unplug your electrical cord when lifting, moving, or positioning your pump to prevent possible electrical shorting.
6. Do not use your pump to move sewage, flammable liquids, or chemicals. These substances will cause damage. Similarly, do not use your pump to move hot liquids which can also damage your pump.
7. If you need to use an extension cord to connect your pump to an electrical wall outlet, use a heavy duty grounded waterproof type of extension cord.
8. Almost all utility pumps require a certain level of standing water (e.g., 1") to begin pumping and will only remove the standing water down to a certain level (e.g., 1/8"). If your pump is not starting, this may be the problem. Other reasons may be an unplugged electrical cord or a tripped circuit breaker.
9. Be sure that your pump is powerful enough to provide enough "lift" (that is, raise the water high enough) to move the water where you want it to go. (For example: If you are removing standing water in a basement you will need a pump strong enough to raise the water up 10-15 feet.)
Submersible utility pumps are really simple and very handy devices to use. Hopefully, these tips will make using a pump even easier and safer for you!

For more information on utility pumps, you will want to check out this article on the submersible pump.

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Reef Aquarium Maintenance - Lighting

Many reef aquarium enthusiasts are well aware and keep a rigorous schedule of doing weekly and even daily maintenance on their reef aquariums to keep the water quality in check. From daily dosing of calcium and ph stabilizer to keep the alkalinity, ph and calcium levels at a level for optimum coral growth, to weekly water changes to keep nitrates and nitrites in check and add trace elements.
We all know about keeping the mechanical filters cleaned to keep from depleting oxygen levels. But may people forget about the importance of maintaining the lighting on their reef aquariums. It is not something that is noticed by the human eye because the change in intensity and color happens at such a gradual pace. The gradual deterioration of the lighting can be evident in several ways in the reef aquarium. There seems to be something wrong. The corals are not opening fully like they used to and some may even start to regress. There is suddenly growth of unwanted algae with seemingly perfect water quality.
You would not think of waiting until ammonia and nitrates get out of hand to start doing water changes, so why wait until the lighting has deteriorated to change the bulbs. Many aquarium light fixtures have a glass or plexiglass cover that over time will build up a fine coating of dust reducing the amount of light reaching the corals. This cover should be cleaned on a monthly basis.
The manufacturers for metal halides recommend changing the bulbs every six months. Fluorescent bulbs such as VHO, power compacts, actinic, and T5s recommend replacement at 8 - 12 months. Many studies have concluded that metal halide bulbs can loose up to 50 percent of their original intensity and color temperature with in 1 year. In other words, a 14,000K HQI bulb after a year could have a color temperature of 7,000K.
This would explain the algae growth since plants tend to utilize more of the red spectrum, while the zooxanthellae found in the coral tissues thrive more on the blue part of the spectrum. In simple terms, the higher the color temperature, the higher the blue part of the spectrum is visible and the lower the color temperature, the higher the red part of the spectrum is visible. To simulate the lighting for the reef aquarium we need to understand the light that occurs naturally on the reef with sunlight. The ocean has a blue color because it is the blue part of the spectrum that penetrates the water the deepest and the red and yellow are filtered out.
Color Shift and Variation
New metal halide bulbs need to have the arc tube chemicals "burn-in" for approximately 100 hours before they reach their optimum color and light level. This is why new lamps can sometimes be unstable or vary in color. Many manufacturers "burn-in" their bulbs before they are sold. As the lamps age, chemical changes occur in the lamp causing shifts in the chromaticity of the lamps. Different lamp designs shift in different ways, and different lamps from the same group may shift in different amounts.
Generally, over the economic life lamps will shift 200K to 300K in color temperature. As a group of lamps ages together in a facility, the lamps will generally shift at the same rate causing very little color variation from lamp to lamp. However, if new replacement lamps are introduced into the group of lamps, color differences may be more noticeable, because the new lamps have not aged and shifted with the remainder of lamps. This is just one of the reasons why many users prefer to group relamp as opposed to spot relamping.
Although Fluorescent bulbs do not have a burn-in time and last longer they tend to build up a coating on the tube, reducing the intensity and color temperature.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=RC_Moore

High Quality Submersible Lamp

The lamp is submersible and water proof. It brighten the aquarium and also promotes the growth of the plants and bring out the colour of the fish.
Important
Do not use the submersible lamp if the glasses is broken
Cut off the current if the water run into the lamp casing